All Products forQuagga Cut and Sew

by

Kitchen & Dining

Bedding

Living & Decor

Fabric

About the Design

A beautiful, extinct zebra subspecies, the quagga was known for its distinctive coat pattern. One

doll fits on the larger fat quarter options.

I made this to fit the largest fat quarter options 18" x 27" With all the smaller pieces in this pattern I am a little nervous that the standard size 18"x 21" might be too small a scale for this to work practically. I'm recommending this on the Celosia velvet since that has a nice soft texture and fraying might be less of a problem on the tiniest seams. This makes a beautiful plush doll, but having small parts it is a more challenging pattern to sew. I have plans to make a set of instructions with photos, but for now I will just add a few important tips. On smaller tighter areas trim your seam allowance down after sewing and before turning! Some of these areas are super tiny and will be impossible to turn with the full seam allowance attached. When sewing the legs, sew from the outside corner of the hoof all the way around stopping about an inch above the front of the hoof. Turn inside out. Take the bottom hoof piece, and gather around the whole thing to make the edges match the diameter of the hoof on the leg. baste onto the leg by hand, and then sew up your seam on the machine. Flip the finished hoof back the right way around and ladder stitch closed after stuffing. The legs are attached by ladder stitching to the outer body aligning the stripes. When sewing the mane, leave the bottom white seam allowance area open for turning. After stuffing sew closed leaving that seam allowance wrong sides together. You need this bit of fabric to stick between the sides of the neck when you are ladder stitching it into it's final position. The head can get a little confusing. The ears go between the forehead piece and the main body exactly where the letters e and f are marked. The mane and ears don't touch. The chin piece starts at the corner where the head and neck meet. Pinch the bottom edge into a triangle and sew into the neck seam. Sew this piece, and then attach the forehead piece starting at the point on the muzzle where the chin piece ended. The belly piece is best placed by matching up the white corner to the body pieces where the white ends on the butt of the quagga. When you have attached the belly, the tail goes right above that triangle. The back piece is best aligned with the edge of the first stripe that reaches the front leg. I have done a lot of fiddling with this piece, and the stripes don't all line up with the body so you can't rely on those for your alignment. The opposing curves on this bit require careful hand sewing.

doll fits on the larger fat quarter options.

I made this to fit the largest fat quarter options 18" x 27" With all the smaller pieces in this pattern I am a little nervous that the standard size 18"x 21" might be too small a scale for this to work practically. I'm recommending this on the Celosia velvet since that has a nice soft texture and fraying might be less of a problem on the tiniest seams. This makes a beautiful plush doll, but having small parts it is a more challenging pattern to sew. I have plans to make a set of instructions with photos, but for now I will just add a few important tips. On smaller tighter areas trim your seam allowance down after sewing and before turning! Some of these areas are super tiny and will be impossible to turn with the full seam allowance attached. When sewing the legs, sew from the outside corner of the hoof all the way around stopping about an inch above the front of the hoof. Turn inside out. Take the bottom hoof piece, and gather around the whole thing to make the edges match the diameter of the hoof on the leg. baste onto the leg by hand, and then sew up your seam on the machine. Flip the finished hoof back the right way around and ladder stitch closed after stuffing. The legs are attached by ladder stitching to the outer body aligning the stripes. When sewing the mane, leave the bottom white seam allowance area open for turning. After stuffing sew closed leaving that seam allowance wrong sides together. You need this bit of fabric to stick between the sides of the neck when you are ladder stitching it into it's final position. The head can get a little confusing. The ears go between the forehead piece and the main body exactly where the letters e and f are marked. The mane and ears don't touch. The chin piece starts at the corner where the head and neck meet. Pinch the bottom edge into a triangle and sew into the neck seam. Sew this piece, and then attach the forehead piece starting at the point on the muzzle where the chin piece ended. The belly piece is best placed by matching up the white corner to the body pieces where the white ends on the butt of the quagga. When you have attached the belly, the tail goes right above that triangle. The back piece is best aligned with the edge of the first stripe that reaches the front leg. I have done a lot of fiddling with this piece, and the stripes don't all line up with the body so you can't rely on those for your alignment. The opposing curves on this bit require careful hand sewing.

More Designs by pond_ripple

Be the first to hear about deals, exciting new products and much more!