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Preview scale: 21.0 x 18.0 inches. Show Rulers
<a href='http://www.spoonflower.com/fabric/1988589-zombie-cut-n-sew-by-glindabunny' title = 'zombie cut n sew by glindabunny on Spoonflower - custom fabric'><img src='http://s3.amazonaws.com/spoonflower/public/design_thumbnails/0198/8589/zombie_plush_shop_preview.png' alt='zombie cut n sew'/></a>
Change DPI Base size is 150
Designs by glindabunny
I like to draw when I have time. That's not so often, though. I have three young children on the autism spectrum, one with a severe congenital heart defect. My husband is a programmer. Life is good, just... busy and intense.
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Use small stitches somewhat close to the edge of the zombie skin (but INSIDE the border of the skin, not outside) to keep the doll accurately shaped.
Because zombies are thin (since their flesh has largely rotted away), the pattern is meant to be sewn a little bit inside the illustration. I've made cut and sew projects where if I don't sew exactly on the edge of the illustration, the surrounding pattern is visible on the stuffed project. I wanted to avoid that with the zombie, so I designed it to have a thin edge of the body illustration inside the seams. I've used the smallest length of straight stitch on my sewing machine to make my zombie to ensure the detail.
Once the doll is complete, you shouldn't be able to see ANY brown background pattern peeking through the seams, even if you tug at them.
I suggest cutting the pieces apart without trimming much more than that before sewing, then lining up the images by holding the two pieces of fabric up to the light. Stitch inside the shape with small, tight stitches, and then trim around the stitching.
The leg pieces should match up so you can cut one piece, for example, for the lower right leg and fold it in half, stitch it, and then trim the seams. You should be able to fold the other lower leg and both thighs to match up, as well.
I drew both sides of the face to look slightly different, as if the zombie had stitched half of a different face on. I suggest hand stitching the face shut (once again, fold the fabric to match the sides up and don't trim until after the stitching is complete). It looks good (well, creepy) to use thick black thread to make it more obvious that the face is sewn together.
I also used thick black thread to sew through the scalp a few times, pulling it tight and knotting it in a few places so it would look slightly puckered, then trimming near the knots to look like sparse bits of hair.
Use thick black thread with large stitches to sew the limbs to the body. They should look flimsy and floppy (or you can sew tiny magnets to the insides of the limbs to make them easily detachable). Alternatively, use a bit of velcro on each connecting joint for a zombie that can be pulled apart.
Thick black thread will also work well on the skirt - if you knot the thread well, you can leave a bit of extra trailing off so it looks like a zombie fashioned her own clothes, possibly in the dark. I suggest thick lighter colored thread for the tank top, sewn in large, sloppy, visible stitches, as well. The tank top and skirt should have exposed seams so they look ragged. Zombies are far too lazy to hem their clothing.
Once you've sewn the zombie doll, you can tear any remaining background fabric into strips. Wrap them around the doll randomly (like around a wrist or a knee) and stitch them to serve as bandages. If you tear them instead of cutting them, the frayed edges will look more natural.
cut and sew (2399),
zombie doll (4)
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Thanks so much! <3 I think the kona cotton works really well. I believe a knit would be a bit too thick for the seams to fit together easily, since they're so precise.
Posted about 2 years ago.
You are just too cool!! I love it!! What fabric do you recommend? I'm thinking a knit.
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